Shipping containers may not be most people’s go-to idea for a fine dining establishment, but chef Adam Degg is not most people.
At his newly-opened Harrogate restaurant, Fifty Two, he’s doing things differently, swapping white tablecloths and predictably-finessed menus for 20 chairs facing an open kitchen (like Netflix’s The Menu, minus the sinister undertones) and food so unexpectedly – and affordably – brilliant you’ll want to come again and again. All set within repurposed shipping containers.
“We are on a mission to introduce a sense of fun into fine dining! There can be a perception that fine dining is stuffy and pretentious,” says Degg. “Embracing a relaxed, social vibe with elements of a’ dinner party at home’ really gelled when we were developing the concept.
“The space is also small – just 20 covers a night – so I get to speak to every guest. There is literally nowhere to hide!” he jokes.
Degg, whose credentials include stints at Horto and working alongside Michelin-starred legends like Tom Kerridge, doesn’t opt for haute cuisine’s typically-rigid set menus, either. Instead, guests are asked to place their trust in Degg and his small team as they’re led through a menu of complete surprises; perhaps a snack of artichoke chips and dip one day, and smoked eel with parsley and malt vinegar the next. All seamlessly prepared and presented to the room with flawless culinary choreography.
This approach is deeply tied to the restaurant’s kitchen garden. With over 500 different edible plants, the garden supplies ingredients that change with the seasons. “All new dishes need to be developed, so if you’ve got an ingredient like cherry blossom, which might only be in season for a few weeks, by the time we’ve perfected a dish, it means only a number of guests are going to get to try it,” says Degg.
“Equally next month, guests might get a dish with lemon verbena that other guests might not experience.”
Inside the shipping containers of Fifty Two at Rudding Park
Still, the lack of knowing what exactly you might be making a reservation for hasn’t put guests off. The restaurant’s been fully booked for weeks on end, with influencers’ rave reviews and word-of-mouth making it one of the most coveted restaurant openings outside of London this year.
The secret to its immediate success, perhaps, lies in the care and attention Degg and his team have put into the details, not just the food. Everty service, guests can opt into pre-dinner cocktails in the garden, donning aprons if they want to get involved in the kitchen, and even choosing tracks for the restaurant’s playlist during dessert.
“We just want the experience to be fun; great food, great drink, fun and interactive – as you’d expect from a dinner party at home with friends.
Of course, the food is also sensational.“I spent many years working for Michelin-starred chef Anthony Demetre who now heads up Wild Honey St James in London,” says Degg. |He instilled into me the importance of viewing a kitchen not just as a cook or chef, but as a business owner.”
Knowing, as many creative chefs have had to learn the hard way, that cooking the best food in the world won’t mean anything if you’re not making your margins.
“Anthony’s cooking is all about minimising waste and sometimes using less glamorous cuts of meat or fish like Ox tongue or hake throats–which if treated with respect and attention can sometimes outshine a sirloin of beef or fillet of fish.”
Taking a nose to tail approach with his own food, Fifty Two often uses discarded ingredients – like cod throats and cheeks – to enhance a dish (in this particular case, its bouillabaisse).
“During my time working for [multi Michelin-starred chef] Tom Kerridge, I learnt how providing the best hospitality possible would ensure repeat business, getting to know your guests so you can tailor your product or offering to their needs, results in them having a memorable experience which they will want to come back and experience again,” he says.
A selection of treats, encompassing one dish, at Fifty Two at Rudding Park
Degg has big plans for the future, too. The restaurant will adapt its offerings with the seasons, using preserved garden produce and specialty hot toddys in winter, and is set to launch private experiences within the space (i.e. for birthdays, anniversaries, and small weddings) to cater to local demand.
“I’ve got an incredibly talented team around me who give their all every day,” he says. “I believe looking after my team, making sure they feel appreciated and providing for them a positive and collaborative work environment will continue to result in a standout dining experience for our guests.
“If we can keep up the momentum from our first few months, it would be amazing if the guides start to take notice. I’d love to be able to bring a Michelin star to Rudding Park and really put Fifty Two on the map.”