Malaga has well and truly shaken off its reputation as being merely the gateway to the Costa del Sol. Revamped and revitalised, the city now boasts a sleek port, an exciting culinary scene and a rapidly growing clutch of artistic attractions. In fact, it’s quickly becoming recognised as one of Spain’s cultural hubs, packed with places to explore from the Pompidou Centre housed in a multicoloured glass cube and renowned Museu de Picasso to the cool Soho district, a grid of streets adorned with street art.

But it’s not all new. This is one of the oldest cities in Spain and hallmarks of its rich past are scattered across Malaga: the cobbled streets of the old town, its mountainside Roman amphitheatre, the Moorish citadels of the Alcazaba and the Gibralfaro. And even once the sightseeing is done, there’s still a city full of rooftop bars, gleaming boutique stores and nearby beaches to explore.

For more Malaga inspiration, see our guides to the best restaurants, things to do and nightlife.

• How to spend your weekend

• Insider tips

• When should I visit Malaga?

• Where to stay in Malaga

• What to bring home

• Essential information: what to know before you go

Start your day in true Spanish style with a breakfast of chocolate con churros – thick hot chocolate with deep-fried doughnut strips, dunking obligatory – at Malaga institution Casa Aranda on Herrería del Rey; there is another branch nearby on Calle Santos.

Walk along Calle Herrerá del Rey to the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, housed in a striking 19th-century, wrought-iron building. ‘Atarazanas’ means shipyards, a reference to the large structure built in the 14th century during the Nasrid dynasty, when the Mediterranean came further inland. Look up at the arch on the entrance on Calle Atarazanas, which survives from the original building. Inside, gawp at the stalls piled high with fruit, vegetables, olives, hams and fish. You might well fancy a second breakfast at one of the bars in the market.

Drifting towards the cathedral takes you through the city’s main shopping streets. Marble-laid Calle Marqués de Larios is lined with big brands such as Massimo Dutti, Bimba y Lola and Mango, and in the nearby streets you’ll come across Zara, Sephora and Camper as well as lots of independent shops.

The cathedral was begun in the 16th century, on the site of Malaga’s main mosque, and features Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. One of the towers was never completed, resulting in its rather lop-sided appearance. Highlights include the carved choir stalls by Pedro de Mena and two 18th-century organs.

Stop for lunch at Taberna Uvedoble, a gastrobar that puts a modern spin on classic Malaga cuisine.

Opposite Uvedoble, have a look around the Roman amphitheatre at the base of Mount Gibralfaro, then walk up to the Alcazaba, the Moorish fortress and palace that dates back to the 11th century and now also houses an archaeological museum. Above it is the Gibralfaro castle, built in the 14th century and worth the hike to get up there. 

Kick off the evening with a little tumbler of sweet Malaga wine – the moscatel is a good one to start with – at Antigua Casa de Guardia on the Alameda Principal, then cross into Soho for dinner at La Antxoeta. Book ahead as the exquisite creative cuisine and a buzzy vibe makes it very popular. Pop into Café de Estraperlo for a gin and tonic or head up to the roof terrace of the RoomMate Valeria hotel next door.

Pay homage to the city’s most famous son at the Museo Picasso. Housed in an elegant 16th-century mansion the museum charts Picasso’s career through 120 works and puts on various temporary exhibitions.

For die-hard fans, the house where Picasso was born (also a museum) is just a stone’s throw away on Plaza de la Merced. Afterwards, take a break from sightseeing at La Tetería, a tearoom that harks back to the city’s Moorish roots. Indulge yourself fully in this heritage with a sweet mint tea and flaky North African pastry. Or have some traditional tapas for lunch at the legendary and labyrinthine El Pimpi, where you can perch at the bar if you just want a quick bite or relax at a table inside or out on the terrace with a view of the Alcazaba.

Sink into the laidback Malaga vibe with a walk or bike ride along the promenade Sunbathing and swimming are options for much of the year too. If you want to cycle, hire a bike from Malaga Bikes. Head along the Muelle Uno quayside – maybe having a look at the contemporary art in the Pompidou Centre – to La Malagueta beach. Keeping going, you reach El Palo and Pedregalejo bays, with plenty of places to eat and drink along the way, such as El Balneario de los Baños del Carmen.

Back in the centre, relax at the Hammam Al Andalus, a Moorish-styled spa where you can dip into thermal pools surrounded by flickering lanterns.

End your trip with a meal at the Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro. Set on the hilltop beside the castle, the romantic restaurant terrace has panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean.

La Concepción, one of Europe’s best botanical gardens, combines formal gardens with a tropical paradise of swaying palm trees, soaring bamboo and other exotic plants. Created in the mid-19th century by an aristocratic couple, the gardens fell into decline but have been restored to their former glory by Malaga City Council.

The Malaga Pass gets you free access to major museums and discounts at some shops, guided tours and other activities. It is available for durations from 24 hours to one week and costs from €28 (£23).

The grid of streets that make up the Soho neighbourhood, south of the Alameda Principal, has an arty vibe, with plenty of galleries, bars, restaurants and independent shops to check out. Antonio Banderas is now behind the Teatro del Soho, which stages musicals and other performances.

Non-guests can also enjoy Room Mate Valeria’s fabulous roof terrace, with views across the city and Mediterranean.

Getting your coffee just right is central to malagueño identity, with countless orders ranging from “shadow” and “cloud” to “long”. 

It rarely gets really cold in Malaga, and it is often warm enough to sit at pavement cafés during the day even in December and January. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Although not as well known as Seville Holy Week, the Easter processions are among the most important in Spain.

Grand style meets contemporary luxe Gran Hotel Miramar which has a rich history and dates back almost a century. A host of famous names including Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner, Jean Cocteau, Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway have graced its corridors. It’s all about the full-on seaside grandeur here, with an array of services including private butlers, a spa, water activities and day excursions. 

The Palacio Solecio occupies a grand 18th-century residence in the heart of the city, close to the Picasso museum and other sights. The stylish hotel houses a renowned restaurant, Balausta, as well as a cooling rooftop pool. Recommended for a romantic break.

Overlooking an atmospheric pedestrian street in the heart of old-town Málaga, Dulces Dreams is packed full of creative character and loosely themed around cakes (‘dulce’ means sweet). It calls itself a hostel, but really it’s more of a budget boutique hotel (no bunk-bed dorms, just stylish rooms for up to four people). Downstairs, there’s a lively café, while a rooftop terrace and bar crowns the building.

Malaga’s the food hub of Andalucía, so don’t leave without a suitcase stuffed with local produce. From the city’s famed anchovies to bottles of silky olive oil and slices of jamón, grab the best at La Mallorquina.

Vino dulce – or sweet wine – is Malaga’s favourite tipple, grab a bottle or two for home from Ultramarinos Zoilo.

British Consulate: (00 34 952 352 300; gov.uk), Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Edificio Eurocom, Malaga

Tourist Office: (00 34 951 926 020; malagaturismo.com); Plaza de la Marina

Other useful websites: visitcostadelsol.com; andalucia.com; andalucia.org

Emergency services: Dial 112

Local laws and etiquette: You must carry your passport with you by law. Take photocopies of your passport and UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) as you will need both for medical treatment.

Locals usually leave very small tips – just odd change for drinks and snacks, and often nothing at all. A 10 per cent tip for a meal is considered generous and 5 per cent is more the norm – unless you are somewhere really upmarket, where international rules come into play.

The basics

Currency: Euro

Time difference: +1 hour

Flight time: Malaga is approximately two-and-a-half hours from UK airports

Annie Bennett has been a regular visitor to Malaga for more than 30 years, observing the city’s steady transformation into one of the most attractive cities in Spain.

Olivia Rawes first fell in love with the city while on a road trip across Andalucía. And she’s been revisiting ever since, to explore street-art-splashed Soho and gorge on seafood at the beach.