The Sorrentine peninsula pushes out into the Tyrrhenian sea like a gnarled finger, its southern shores blessed by some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in the world. Linking the towns is the SS163, the legendary Amalfi Coast Drive, a 16 km twisting, turning two-lane road that weaves and dips torturously in and out and up and down gorges, clinging to the cliff face from Positano to Amalfi. The background is lemon and olives groves, picture-perfect whitewashed villages and the ever-present shimmering blue sea.
This itinerary focuses on the principal stretch of the SS163, but the corniche road continues no-less dramatically all the way to Vietri-sul-Mare and tends to attract fewer crowds in this eastern stretch. A word of warning; the road is notoriously difficult to navigate, mainly for the sheer volume of traffic. In high season (May to September), you are likely to find yourself at best crawling along at a snail’s pace, bumper-to-bumper behind scores of tourist buses. So either move around by sea or avoid these months; April and October are good times to visit.
For further Amalfi Coast inspiration, see our guides to the city’s best hotels, restaurants, nightlife and things to do.
How to spend your weekend
Day one: Morning
Start your tour of the coast in Positano, the most famous of the Amalfi Coast towns, a tumble of pastel-hued houses clinging impossibly to an almost sheer cliff face. The best way to arrive is by sea, but if you are driving, park at the top of the town and walk down to Piazza dei Mulini from where steep, narrow (and tourist-clogged) Via dei Mulini descends towards the beach.
La Zagara is a good stop-off for coffee and delicious pastries and cakes. Further on is elegant, 18th-century Palazzo Murat, once home to Giochino Murat, King of Naples, and now a very lovely hotel. Further down the hill lies the church of Santa Maria Assunta and the entrance to the Museo Archeologico Romano, the recently- discovered remains of a Roman villa.
In Positano, La Zagara is a good stop-off for coffee and delicious pastries and cakes
Credit: VALERIO GARGIULO ALL RIGHT RESERVED/www.valeriogargiulo.com
The grey pebble beach of Spiaggia Grande is a good spot for a dip; you can hire a sun bed and umbrella from one of the lidos, or claim a patch of the free beach in the middle. Alternatively, a footpath leads to the right around the point to the less-crowded local’s beach of Il Fornillo where the Pupetto hotel and beach bar will serve you an ice cold beer. Take the stepped path up the hill behind the hotel to see another side of Positano, a quiet neighbourhood where locals outnumber tourists.
The tiny village of Montepertuso lies 400 metres above Positano (either drive up or catch the SITA bus) and is a cool, quiet escape from the crowds. Book a table at Donna Rosa for ravioli stuffed with local artichokes and lamb cutlets flavoured with wild rosemary.
The grey pebble beach of Spiaggia Grande is a good spot for a dip
Credit: vololibero/vololibero
Afternoon
Bolstered by lunch (and not too much wine), head to the even tinier village of Nocelle; the SITA bus will take you almost there. From the car park, access to the clutch of rustic houses is via some 100 steps, but once you arrive, the views are breathtaking.
Nocelle is the starting point for the ‘Sentiero degli Dei’, the Costiera’s most celebrated walk. The path meanders along the pinnacle of the mountains with, at times, sheer drops on either side. Finishing in Bomerano, the whole thing will take the best part of a day, but you can tackle just a short section. It is essential to carry water, a sunhat, sunblock and a camera to capture the extraordinary views.
Back in Nocelle, you can have a cool drink and a piece of homemade cake at Bar-Ristorante Santa Croce in the centre of the village.
The views from the tiny village of Nocelle are breathtaking
Credit: Leonid Sorokin
Late
You have earned a slap-up evening out, so slip into some kind of casual-chic linen and cashmere combo and head for Aldo’s bar at hotel Le Sirenuse for champagne, oysters and magnificent views.
You could move onto dinner at La Sponda, the hotel’s uber-romantic Michelin-starred restaurant, or walk up the road to the much more affordable Da Bruno for spaghetti alle vongole. For more suggestions of the best restaurants in the area, see our guide.
Round the evening off dancing in a sea cave at Music on the Rocks, a nightclub founded in the 1970s on Positano’s Spiaggia Grande.
Reward a day of sightseeing with a tipple at Le Sirenuse’s Champagne and Oyster bar
Day two: Morning
There is a lot of ground to cover today, so try and get an early start; the going on the SS 163 can be maddeningly slow. From Positano, a few twists and turns in the road to the east lead to the sprawling, low-key village of Praiano.
Bar Sole on the main street is the modest social hub of the village and they make a decent cappuccino. Ceramics whizz Paolo Sandulli has his studio in a Saracen watchtower looking out to sea just outside the town.
Just along the coast is the tiny, picturesque fishing hamlet of Marina di Praia, a clutch of cottages, a couple of restaurants and a few boats pulled up on a tiny beach squeezed between walls of towering rock. From here you can rent a boat, either with or without a skipper, and spend a dreamy hour put-puttering along the coast towards Amalfi.
Pull up at waterside Ippocampo at Conca dei Marini (Facebook link) for a simple fishy feast; it’s only accessible by sea or hundreds of steep steps. Alternatively, back at Marina di Praia, Armandino’s, a modest quayside trattoria, offers up pasta with clams and grilled swordfish.
The tiny, picturesque fishing hamlet of Marina di Praia is a clutch of cottages and a couple of restaurants and a few boats
Credit: alxpin (alxpin (Photographer) – [None]/alxpin
Afternoon
Continuing east, past the towering viaduct that crosses the Vallone di Furore, lies the Emerald Grotto, a popular tourist attraction named after the intense blue-green light that filters into the cave; access is via a lift on the main road.
The coast road twists and turns past Amalfi and Atrani before reaching the turn-off for Ravello, a ravishing little town with an other-worldly atmosphere perched on a bluff 350 metres feet above the gulf of Salerno. After a refreshing iced tea or gelato at one of the bars in the square, pop into the 11th-century Duomo to admire the two magnificent pulpits.
Dreamy, romantic Ravello is perched on a 350-metre buttress looking over the Gulf of Salerno
Nearby Villa Rufolo has a Moorish cloister and gardens that inspired Wagner for the second act of Parsifal in 1880. But the jewel in the crown is Villa Cimbrone with its grandiose gardens suspended above the sea; the Terrace of the Infinity is a particularly Instagram-worthy spot. The Bloomsbury set hung out in the villa in the 1920s; today it is a luxury hotel where you can call in for a very civilized aperitivo.
Alternatively, head back down to Amalfi in time to visit the great Arab-Norman Duomo di Sant’Andrea and to stock up on traditional ‘bambagina’ paper at the Scuderia del Duca and lemon and almond biscuits at historic Pasticceria Pansa.
Ravello’s jewel in the crown is Villa Cimbrone with its grandiose gardens suspended above the sea
Credit: P A Thompson
Late
Once a glorious maritime republic of some 70,000 souls, Amalfi can feel oppressively crowded during the day, but come evening, many visitors leave. Bag a table at one of the bars in piazza Duomo, order a Campari spritz and settle down for some people watching before heading to the upper part of the town for dinner at Trattoria dei Cartari, a friendly little place serving authentic local dishes such as paccheri pasta with monkfish and prawns.
In keeping with this evening’s low profile entertainment, wander round the headland to charming Atrani and Bar Risacca (00 39 089 872866) in pretty piazza Umberto I for a nightcap; it’s a delightful spot in which to soak up a bit of local life. For more suggestions of the best nightlife in the area, see our guide.
Bag a table at one of the bars in piazza Duomo, order a Campari spritz and settle down for some people watching
Credit: wjarek
Insider tips
Getting around
Arriving on the Amalfi Coast can be a traffic-clogged nightmare by road, and recently-imposed restrictions (a complex system of alternating odd and even number plates on odd and even days) during high season mean that not all cars can circulate freely. A much more pleasant alternative to the car is to take the train to Salerno and from there catch a ferry to Amalfi or Positano. The public SITA bus is a good way of travelling along the coast road.
Road tripping
Many people think that the Costiera Amalfitana finishes in Amalfi itself; wrong. The stretch of coast that continues to Vietri-sul-Mare is less crowded and no less spectacular. Highlights include pear and ricotta tart at Bar del Riso in Minori, the long, sandy beach at Maiori and lunch at Acqua Pazza in the gritty little fishing village of Cetara. Last up is attractive Vietri itself where you can stock up on the local ceramics.
Attractions
The Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto) is one of the biggest crowd-pullers on the Costiera; you’ll know when you get there from the tourists buses parked on the road outside. To avoid the queues for the lift down to the cave, it’s much better to hop on one of the boats that run regularly from Amalfi. It’s a prettier ride, too. For more suggestions of the best things to do in the area, see our guide.
Hotels
The exclusive Le Sirenuse hotel in Positano boasts unbeatable views over the village from its rooms and terraces, but prices are unaffordable for all but the lucky few. The rooms on the upper floors at hotel Villa Rosa just up the road share the same views for a fraction of the cost and all but two have large terraces.
Money saver
Stay in Salerno. Backed by mountains and set on a wide bay some 13 kilometres by sea east of Amalfi, the large, lively port city of Salerno is makes a cheaper – and really pleasant – alternative base for visiting the Amalfi Coast. The ancient old town has a fabulous cathedral and a network of characterful narrow lanes to explore and some great restaurants and pizzerias. There are plenty of affordable small hotels, B&Bs and apartments, and the attractions of the Costiera are only 15 minutes or so by sea; ferries run regularly from Salerno to Amalfi and Positano, and there is also a bus service. To the south lie the magnificent Greek temples at Paestum.
Did you know?
Wedged into a gorge with lots of gushing streams, Amalfi became an important centre for paper-making from the 13th century, producing a thick, heavy parchment known as ‘bambagina’, and until a century or so ago, the area was still full of paper mills. Only a couple are left today, but you can still buy the paper in local shops and learn about the history of paper-making in the Museo della Carta.
When to go
This short stretch of coastline is packed from Easter until late October. July and August (Italian holiday time) are the hottest, most crowded months; the best times to visit are early spring and late autumn although even then you can’t expect to find the place empty. In spring, the air is clear and fresh, the colours bright and the hillsides are carpeted with wild flowers. In late autumn, the sea is still warm enough to swim and the whole place seems to mellow in anticipation of the end of the season. Many hotels and restaurants close for the winter, but it is a wonderful time to come if you are into nature and the quiet life.
Where to stay
Luxury Living
Often included in ‘World’s Best’ lists and frequented by such stars as George Clooney and Julia Roberts, the legendary and oh-so-glam Il San Pietro di Positano lives up to its reputation. But the luxuriousness and spectacular setting belie what is, at the heart, a family operation, so the five-star service comes with a smile. Don’t miss restaurant Zass, where dishes such as lemon tagliatelle with lobster and fennel use fresh produce from the hotel’s 10,000 square-metre kitchen garden.
Il San Pietro di Positano oozes discreet retro glamour throughout its gleaming hallways and fabulous terraces
Credit: Vito Fusco/Vito Fusco
Boutique Beauty
Until recently, Casa Buonocore was the home of a family who now run it with great dedication and style. The location is excellent and compared to Positano’s often outrageous prices, it is pretty good value too. Eight beautiful rooms of wildly varying sizes are all meticulously furnished with lots of attention to detail – one even has a huge panoramic terrace with views over the town and sea. Breakfast is the only meal on offer, but it’s outstanding (homemade cakes and pastries, eggs made to order, organic jams and yogurts) and changes daily.
Casa Buonocore has an excellent location and compared to Positano’s often outrageous prices, it is pretty good value
Budget Bolthole
For peace, verdant nature, and a taste of Italian family-style hospitality, look no further than La Valle delle Ferriere, a little b&b set on a footpath around a 15-minute walk from Amalfi’s town centre. It’s a heart-warming place with beautiful views (though the climb up to it will make your pulse race). With just three rooms and one apartment (done out in simple Amalfi Coast style), the atmosphere is quiet, intimate, and charmingly homely.
For a taste of Italian family-style hospitality, look no further than La Valle delle Ferriere
What to bring home
Vietri sul Mare has been famous for its production of majolica ceramics since the 11th century. The best place to buy the typically colourful homeware (you will recognize the naïf animal designs) is the Solimene factory (Via Madonna degli Angeli 7, 00 39 089 210243) whose warehouse is stuffed with seconds at bargain prices.
Derived from the Roman sauce ‘garum’, colatura di alici is an extract of anchovies used as a condiment on pasta and other dishes. Cetara is known for its anchovy fishing and the highly prized colatura is a by-product; all of the delis on the main street sell it, but some of the best can be sourced at Cetarii (00 39 089 261863) down by the harbor.
The best place to buy colourful majolica ceramics in Vietri sul Mare is the Solimene factory
Know before you go
Getting there
The Amalfi Coast is not the most accessible of places although the upcoming opening (slated for July) of the new airport just south of Salerno (‘Salerno-Costa d’Amalfi’) will change all that. It will handle direct flights from France, Germany and the UK (Easyjet from Gatwick) as well as domestic flights. Journey time into the city centre is around 20 minutes by taxi. If you are moving on to the Costiera, there are regular ferry services to Amalfi (40 minutes) and Positano (one hour) from Salerno’s tourist port.
Naples Capodichino airport has more choice of inter-European flights while Rome Fiumicino handles intercontinental routes. From Naples you can arrange a private transfer or take the Campania Express train (mid-March until mid-October) to Sorrento and then a bus to the coast. Off-season, you are left to the mercy of the much slower Circumvesuviana service. There is also a regular ferry service from Naples to Sorrento which is faster than going by road.
Essential information
- Once in the area, the SITA bus company provides an efficient, cheap service up and down the coast and to outlying towns and there are plenty of taxis.
- The local dress code for churches dictates that shoulders and midriffs should be covered (a scarf or shawl will do) and skirts should not be too short.
- Italians always say hello and goodbye in social situations and when entering or leaving a bar or a shop; a simple buon giorno in the morning or buona sera in the evening is good, plus arriverderci when you leave. When you are introduced to an Italian, it is normal to shake hands.
- In Italy, generous tips are not expected in restaurants or by taxi drivers although you can always show your appreciation after a meal by rounding the bill up a few euros.
The basics
- Currency: Euro
- Telephone code: 00 39 081 (anywhere in the province of Naples); 00 39 089 (anywhere in the province of Salerno)
- Time difference: UTC +1 hour
- Flight time (from London): Approximately 2.5 hours
Essential contacts
- British Embassy: 00 39 06 4220 0001; gov.uk; Via Venti Settembre, 80A, 00187 Roma. Open 9am to 5pm, Mon-Fri. Visits by appointment only
- Police: Dial 11
- Ambulance: Dial 118
Tourist offices
- Positano: aziendaturismopositano.it
- Amalfi: amalfitouristoffice.it
- Ravello: ravellotime.it
About our expert
Nicky Swallow is Telegraph Travel’s Amalfi Coast expert. She has lived in Florence since 1981 and first visited the Costiera Amalfitana in the mid-1990s when she tasted local mozzarella grilled on a lemon leaf and was hooked. She has been going back regularly ever since.
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