What: Lookin’ Good Restaurant & Lounge
Where: 66 Sheridan Boulevard
When: Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily
For more info: Visit lookinggoodrestaurant.com
The place: With the recent closure of the Breakfast King, Denver lost one of its beloved greasy spoons. As the number of old-school diners in the city continues to dwindle (R.I.P. to the Denver Diner and Tom’s Diner, among others), we’ve been revisiting some of the city’s remaining classics — including Lookin’ Good. Open since 1978, the interior of the restaurant is large and open with high ceilings, and the main dining room is sparsely decorated with a whole lot of brown and tan accents — this spot isn’t trying to be trendy.
Instead, it’s all about downhome, casual comfort. There’s a row of chairs along a counter facing the kitchen, with plenty of tables and booths scattered throughout. And at a recent weeknight dinner, the place was quiet, with just a handful of other tables occupied.
The menu is filled with American, Mexican and Greek options for breakfast (which is served all day), lunch and dinner; this spot also has a full bar. “The items with photos are our most popular,” a server explained, flipping through pages and calling out some recommendations, including the gyro sandwich served with thick-cut fries ($13.95). Lookin’ Good is also one of the few spots in town that serves a unique Denver creation: the Toro Pot, a combination of ground beef and potatoes inside a flour tortilla, smothered in green chile ($13.95). But while the bulk of the menu is typical diner fare (done well, and dependably), there’s no debate over how your meal should start.
What you’re eating: Flaming saganaki ($12.95). Listed on the menu under the appetizers section as simply saganaki, it’s described as “kefalotyri cheese dipped in batter and fried golden to a crisp” — but that’s not exactly accurate.
Instead of some deep-fried, mozzarella stick-like presentation, the saganaki here is served the traditional Greek way. A thick round of salty, Greek cheese is brought out on a metal skillet. Then, after a carefully measured pour of brandy is added (not too much, to avoid a larger-than-intended flame), the cheese ignites with a boisterous “Opa!” from your server.
To quell the flames, lemon is squeezed on top before the whole bubbling skillet is placed on your table with a side of pita. (Pro tip: ask for double the pita so you’ve got just the right amount for shoveling up the warm, caramelized cheese.)
Warm cheese isn’t exactly a culinary innovation, but it is a crowd-pleaser. And the bonus of dinner and a brief show — with the small possibility of danger — makes for a fun outing with a group of friends. If you’re looking for a low-key dose of comfort food from an old-school spot, Lookin’ Good has just what you’re craving.
Opa!