With the 2024 Olympics headed into its final few days, NBC Chicago’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky has a recommendation if you can’t stop thinking about Paris.
It’s hard enough running an affordable restaurant in the city, but Bar Parisette in Logan Square is trying to appeal to the neighborhood with a combination of textbook bistro cooking and down-to-earth prices.
“I also think the approach that we take here is pretty different from other French restaurants that have opened or even that have been operating in Chicago for many years,” said Matthew Sussman, the Owner of Bar Parisette.
For one thing, those plates of coppa, chorizo and salami are all produced down the street at their sister restaurant, Table, Donkey and Stick. Silky smooth chicken liver mousse is made back here, along with their buttery brioche – the perfect vehicle for schmearing. Same goes for the beef tartare, which isn’t weighed down by egg yolks or mayo.
“Our take is a little fresher, especially for summertime it works really well garnished with nasturtium leaves to give it a little color and brightness,” said Sussman.
Mussels are tossed with shallots and garlic, steamed in their juices then plated and served alongside twice-fried potatoes, which are tender-yet-crispy. Old School prep for the halibut en papillote… “We’re working with seasonal vegetables – some baby carrots and summer squash – we’re dressing the halibut with a Café de Paris butter…”
The butter has a hint of French curry powder for perfume, all of which is enjoyed tableside when the sealed parchment is cut open. And since this is a bistro, there’s a very good pan-roasted half chicken.
“We’re currently using Green Circle Farms chickens, which are really delicious, really juicy. A little side of snap peas and radish that counterbalances the richness of the crispy skin and the jus,” said Sussman.
As for wine, they’re not marking up bottles two or three hundred percent. Instead…
“We’re essentially charging you the retail price, with a corkage fee. Some rare and coveted wines as well as some great value wines from producers we love,” he said.
Finish with a simple, seasonal dessert.
“Kind of a classic tarte au citron, with lemon, and we’re incorporating seasonal produce in there as well, so we move from blueberries, currently using plums.”
Sussman says you don’t have to commit to a full meal here. He wants to become a permanent part of the neighborhood.
“We’re a bistro and a wine bar first; we welcome people to come in just for a snack or even just for a drink,” he said.
There is also a happy hour a couple of days a week, and the nice thing about the menu, there’s something for everyone. Even a burger.
Here’s where you can go:
2829 W. Armitage Ave.
312-955-0072