I’m visiting all 350 of NYC’s neighborhoods. Here’s some of what I’ve learned so far.

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New York is a city of neighborhoods: 350 of them, according to a recent crowdsourced survey by the New York Times.

Last March, after 20 years of photographing in and around the city, I decided to document every single neighborhood. I’ve been covering approximately one a week. To keep myself accountable, I share my updates in an email newsletter.

Usually when I get to a new neighborhood (by bike, subway or car), I spend several hours walking around, taking photographs and making recordings with no real agenda.

Later, I research — pouring over newspaper archives from the Times and Brooklyn Eagle and visiting websites including Forgotten NY, Gothamist and Urban Archive to put what I saw into context. Then, if time permits, I’ll revisit the neighborhood to take more pictures.

People often ask me what my favorite neighborhood is, and the answer is always wherever I am concentrating on that week. From the Oyster Aristocrats of Mariners Harbor in Staten Island to the castle of Kingsbridge in the Bronx, every neighborhood has something unique.

Some things I’ve learned so far: Nobody can agree on a neighborhood’s name or borders. Every neighborhood has something worth seeing. Learning a little bit of a place’s history can deepen the experience of visiting it. And, most importantly, if you ever need a bathroom, look for the closest public library branch.

Here I highlight seven of the 48 New York City neighborhoods I visited in the past year. Each one is a revelation into how diverse and unique our city is.

Spuyten Duyvil

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Spuyten Duyvil (the Bronx)

Last month, during a stretch of perfect late spring weather, I wandered around Spuyten Duyvil (pronounced “spai-tuhn dai-vl”), a small community in the southwestern corner of the Bronx that’s bisected by the Henry Hudson Parkway. Spuyten Duyvil’s most unique (and most photographed) building may be the Villa Charlotte Brontë, perched 100 feet above the Hudson River. Lawyer and Brontë fan John J. McKelvey had the building built in 1926 as a co-op apartment building for those whose “soul is hungry for the majesty of the river.”

A 2006 article in the New York Times aptly described the Brontë building as “a fantasy sand castle for the Amalfi Coast designed by M. C. Escher.” A series of staircases, walkways and stone arches connect the 17 apartments with terracotta-tiled roofs and casement windows framed by thick vines of wisteria.

A $5 (off peak) CityTicket will get you from Grand Central to the neighborhood’s Metro-North station, which is dramatically situated at the confluence of the Hudson and Harlem rivers. From there, you can walk along the petite Spuyten Duyvil Shorefront Park that meanders underneath the Henry Hudson Bridge before heading up the steep incline of Palisade Avenue to explore the rest of the neighborhood.

You can visit Henry Hudson Park, which features a 100-foot Doric column with a 16-foot sculpture of Hudson on top. Fun fact: Frank Lloyd Wright suggested the park as the location for the Guggenheim Museum.

If you’re hungry, your best options are packing a lunch or walking to nearby Riverdale, where there are plenty of dining options, including Liebman’s, the Bronx’s last kosher deli.

Meadowmere

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Meadowmere and Warnerville (Queens)

With a population of only around 60 people, Meadowmere feels like New York City’s smallest neighborhood. Neighboring Warnerville is even smaller. Technically, both neighborhoods are part of Rosedale, but Rockaway Boulevard’s six lanes cut them off from the rest of the neighborhood and make them feel distinct.

There is only one business in Meadowmere: the M&B bait shop, opened by Mary and Bob Seaman. The Seamans have spent years plying the shallow waters of Jamaica Bay on a flat-bottomed skiff, bringing in baskets of silver-backed eels and bait and selling them to local fishermen and bait shops.

On my first trip to Meadowmere, I spent the first 30 minutes walking around and photographing before I realized I was not, in fact, in Meadowmere but rather Meadowmere Park, the only portion of Nassau County that is located west of Queens.

I had to cross the 75-foot wooden bridge spanning Hook Creek to get back within city limits. The freshly paved, well-drained streets of Meadowmere Park felt a world away from the rutted and cracked city roads of Meadowmere, which were covered by large pools of standing water.

It only takes about 20 minutes to see all of Meadowmere. Afterwards, I recommend taking the 10-minute walk to Warnerville.

Although Meadowmere has one more road than Warnerville, the latter does have its own restaurant. Bayhouse is a popular spot for locals and airline employees who go there for fried calamari, cheeseburgers and, above all, the view. It is the only place in the city where you can sip a strawberry daiquiri on the edge of a tidal estuary under the shadow of a 787 Dreamliner. Bring your own bug spray.

Two Bridges neighborhood

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Two Bridges (Manhattan)

While I’m not yet ready to concede that Dimes Square is an actual neighborhood, I recently learned that nearby Two Bridges, which I’d always thought was part of Manhattan’s Chinatown, has been a neighborhood since 1955. It’s the area by the footings of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges and was once a thriving farm owned by five generations of the Rutgers family of master brewers.

Today, the controversial residential tower One Manhattan Square, a 72-story, 800-foot glass-and-steel monolith complete with an adult tree house, bowling alley and cigar bar, is the dominant feature on the Two Bridges skyline.

47-49 Madison Street in the Two Bridges Neighborhood

Photo by Rob Stephenson

On the other end of the spectrum is the two-and-a-half-story red brick building at 47-49 Madison St., which dates from the early 1800s and once housed the J. Marriott Sportsman’s Hall, where one could drink beer and bet on how long it would take a dog to kill 100 rats. Today the building, wedged between a barbershop and a smoke shop, is owned by nearby St. James’ Roman Catholic Church.

If you make it to Two Bridges, be sure to check out 75 East Broadway, one of two malls under the Manhattan Bridge. The ground level is occupied by a Chinese grocery, with an open-air produce section and various discount wholesalers. Upstairs is a different world – a bizarre, half-vacant warren of glass and chrome-fronted office spaces occupied by small galleries, edgy boutiques like Eckhaus Latta, and bespoke jewelry stores.

Another must-see is the Downtown Music Gallery, an underground record store and performance space specializing in experimental and improvisational music.

The bare-bones basement space, once described as “a bomb shelter for avant-garde music fanatics,” is the embodiment of underground music. They have a free in-store performance series at 6:30 p.m. on Tuesdays. There are plenty of places to eat in the area, but I loved Golden Diner, which says it serves “classic NY diner dishes that have been influenced by the neighborhood.”

Lighthouse Hill in Staten Island

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Lighthouse Hill (Staten Island)

Lighthouse Hill, in the middle of Staten Island, punches above its weight. The tiny neighborhood not only boasts its namesake lighthouse, it’s also home to the only Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home in New York City and has its own Tibetan Art Museum.

When you get to the neighborhood, it’s hard to miss the 90-foot octagonal tower looming above the detached single-family homes surrounding it. Down the road, you will find the only Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house in the city. The house, named the “Crimson Beech” after a copper beech tree (now dead) in the front yard, is officially known as Prefab No. 1, part of a collaboration between Wright and architect-contractor Marshall Erdman. Wright never saw the house, as he died the same year it was built, in 1959.

No trip to Lighthouse Hill is complete without a visit to the Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Art. The museum was built by one-time child actress and Tibetan art enthusiast Jacques Marchais, who modeled the museum after photographs of the Potala Palace in Lhasa.

The museum offers weekly classes like tai chi, yoga and sound-healing meditation.

Wallabout

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Wallabout (Brooklyn)

Wallabout, situated between the Brooklyn Navy Yard and Myrtle Avenue, is one of Brooklyn’s oldest neighborhoods and boasts one of the greatest surviving concentrations of pre-Civil War wood-frame houses in the city.

The construction of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway in the 1960s cleaved the neighborhood in half, separating the largely industrial buildings on one side of Park Avenue from the residential buildings on the other.

Perhaps the most famous of those residential buildings is 99 Ryerson, once occupied by Walt Whitman while he was putting the finishing touches on “Leaves of Grass.”

99 Ryerson, where Walt Whitman once called home.

Photo by Rob Stephenson

On the other side of the BQE, you can find the former headquarters of the Rockwood & Company chocolate factory, once one of the largest chocolate manufacturers in the country, second only to confectionary juggernaut Hershey’s.

Today, the Rockwood building has been converted into apartments and rebranded as the Chocolate Factory Lofts. Among the many amenities the building lists on its website is the ground-floor Laffaholics Comedy Club.

When in Wallabout, be sure to stop by Head Hi, an art and architecture-focused bookstore, which serves the best espresso in the neighborhood. GMC Temaxcal is great for tortas, Tiger Box for Bibimbap, and Le Petit Monstre for vegan baked goods.

Pigtown

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Pigtown (Brooklyn)

Today, this small section of Brooklyn could be considered part of Crown Heights, East Flatbush or Prospect Lefferts, depending on whom you ask. It’s also sometimes referred to as Wingate.

But in the 19th century, Pigtown — on the border of what were then called the “towns” of Brooklyn and Flatbush — was a popular spot for squatters, a good place for pig farming and a convenient place to dump garbage.

PIgtown

Photo by Rob Stephenson

If you make it to the former Pigtown, be sure to visit the African Record Center at 1194 Nostrand Ave. The business was started by the Francis brothers in approximately 1969, who were the first to import and distribute African music in the United States.

If they hadn’t introduced Manu Dibango’s Soul Makossa to New York City in 1972, we might never have had the iconic “mama-say mama-sah ma-ma-coo-sah” coda of Michael Jackson’s “Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin,” a refrain lifted straight from Dibango’s hit. While it may seem incongruous to eat a vegan burrito in a place called Pigtown, that’s exactly what I did at the highly recommended Veggie’s Natural Juice Bar and Cafe.

Houdini’s Grave in Glendale, Queens.

Photo by Rob Stephenson

Glendale (Queens)

While the “official” center of New York City is in Woodside (there’s even a plaque), Glendale, which is located about 5 miles south and is surrounded by cemeteries and train tracks, looks like it is situated right in the middle of the city.

Glendale was developed in the 1860s in the heart of the cemetery belt, a swath of graveyards straddling the Brooklyn-Queens border. By 1880, the neighborhood was popular among German immigrants, who accounted for one-third of New York City’s population at the time. They opened hotels and breweries with “picnic parks” that quickly became a popular weekend draw.

All that came to an end when the Volstead Act became law in 1920, ushering in an era of Prohibition, and the breweries and picnic parks shut down for good.

Probably the closest you will get to the Glendale of the late 19th century is grabbing a stein and some schnitzel at neighborhood stalwart Zum Stammtisch. If you are into taxidermied warthog heads, lederhosen and beer (and frankly, who isn’t?), Zum Stammtisch is your place. Don’t sleep on the “Uber Pretzel” – though you could, as it’s the size of a small pillow.

After a few beers (or Apfelsafts, or apple juices, for the non-drinkers) you can pay homage to the great Houdini, who is buried at Machpelah Cemetery.

Wrap up your tour at the “All in the Family” house across from another one of the neighborhood’s ubiquitous cemeteries. While the Bunkers were said to live in Astoria, and the show was filmed in Los Angeles, the house that appears in the credits is at 89-70 Cooper Ave.

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